the real big wednesday / outside Pipeline
Geschichstunterricht einfach gemacht !
(the first surfers to ride outside pipeline)ricky grigg, mike stang and greg noll.ricky grigg gets the wave of the day.from the surf movie blue surf-ari, a very rare flim from the 60's
Fragen & Antworten (50)
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o primeiro video do youtube
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No leash opened up a lot of left as regular foot always went right not wanting to lose their boards especially surfing in front of cliffs.
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The indigenous people been riding these size waves way longer than these guys act like they’re the first. Colonists drive me insane
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So this isn't Waimea?
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certified core lord $#!+
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One word Orthodontics
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That was incredible! No leg ropes, no Tow Skis, no buoyancy vests, no super quick fast maneuvering boards. Just those huge heavy "logs" & giant sets of balls.
Certainly gave me a whole nother level of respect for them. As you said, no leg ropes, had to paddle out no tow, no vests, on old long boards in those conditions.....holy shit!
I’m an old goat now, but I was surfing long before kook cords. Surfing humongous Hawaiian waves and facing long swims in when you lost your board could be intimidating. Sometimes you never saw your board again. It just blew out sea. It headed to Molokai was the running joke. I miss stand-up surfing more than anything else I can’t do anymore. I can still belly board so I still get salt water blasted up my nose. I ain’t dead yet.
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ORIGINAL CORE LORDS
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LOL...I love how the narrator was saying how no ones ever ridden this and its suicide to ride this wave.....then he said."then Greg Noll arrived with his board". I've never surfed 1 time in my life..but I know who Greg Noll is!
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1:03 the empty wave in the Hawaii 5-0 opening montage 🤙
You got it
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Our founding fathers 🤙
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Those were some bad-ass motha-fuqers.
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What a Chad Da Bull was. Larger than life personality and balls of steel.
Greg "The Bull" had even bigger cahones.
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Bruce Brown? Isnt this from the first Endless Summer?
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The one clip is the opening shot for the original Hawaii 5 o.
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No leashes back then
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hawaii 5 O wave at 6.55 wow
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Who is here 2025?
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Mike Doyle was a friend of mine nicest guy ever truly a inspiration
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Nothing like paddling out with some bros into certain chaos.
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epic.
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Very cool
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Trivia-Look at the wave peeling after they say ,”lets do it”. I think it answers the question of where the opening wave in tv series Hawaii 5-0 was filmed.😂
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When REAL mean wore REAL board shorts ... verses ego look at my crack barely cover butt shorts.
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We need someone to clean up the original
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Does anyone remember Bob bermel. Did stang ever fix his teeth???????
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1:05 looks exactly like the Hawaii Five 0 wave
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FEARLESS AMERICANS !! Doing what they do best. Setting standards. NZ
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"Human caused climate change". Hahaha!. "Warm waters increase shark metabolism which means they have to travel farther to find food"??? Implying that they get closer to shore now looking for humans to eat. Classic "global warming" propaganda. Pretty funny.
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Great footage!
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1:04 looks like Hawaii 5-0
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Even though I'm much younger than these guys, I was born in 1960 on Oahu's famous north shore and we had a beach house out in the country. I started surfing at age 5, and so I learned on big heavy tankers and even when more progressive shapes evolved surfing the North Shore, there simply were no leashes so to surf places like sunset and breaks that were way out from shore , you had to be an excellent swimmer and also understand all the rip currents and undertows in order to just make it paddling out to a spot. But it was common to wipe out or get the board ripped out pf your hands when flipping the board and turn turtle or turtle under when caught inside of a big wave. You coudnt push the nose under and duck dive those big heavy tanks! (Funny, turtle under and duck dive) lol!! The names we came up with anf those two were named after animals! But yeah we were in absolute top shape cause we swam from way outside all the way in to the beach, and at sunset, most often your board wasn't inside or washed up on the beach but got caught in the rip current and was floating way out there. Sunset was like that and then you'd jumpback in after running up the beach and spotting your board way out there!!! Some places your board would be way out but a mile down the coast at some spots and you'd run down the beach till you were right in from where it was and the dive in and swim way out popping your head up to spot it and treading water getting your head up as high as possible till you saw it then more swimming!! Sometimes you'd swim for 30 mins or longer just to get out and to your board!!! Now that made incredible watermen out of us!!! That's why when it got big there were so few guys who could do that it was totally uncrowded!! The first leashes were hollow rubber tubing with coiled up nylon rope inside and they were dangerous and once it stretched out the rope uncoiledband then it was just getting dragged by the wavevwith you in tow! Before urethane leashes, those old leashes including bungie cord one's that the board often popped out and came flying back at you and hit you in the face! So when it was getting big we nevet wanted those dangerous old leashes so we surfed without one and it made us better surfer's and incredibly fit swimmers!! I'm so blessed to be born and raised in Hawaii and in particular grow up out in the country on Oahu and also surf the outer islands a lot back when it was just sugar cane fields everywhere and hippies and no crowds! It wad so great!!! Fred Van Dyke was my science teacher in high school and he used to arrange "field trips " where we'd all get on a little school bus and go out to the country for the day anf hang out at his house and on the beach and my friends and I would bring our surfboards and surf all day and Fred was just the coolest!! Ricky Greig was an oceanographer and I would scuba dive with him and then Buzzy Trent and Gregg Noll and all these guys were just legends we looked up to and did stuff with them and they had a huge influence on our lives!! I'm just truly blessed growing in the Era I did and have guys like them and later Lopez and BK and Dennis Pang and Reno and they were all friendls I grew up with and we had it so uncrowded and to ourselves!! Never will be like that again and I'm so grateful I was surfing out thetr before the crowds came!! It was great! Yeah these guys Really pioneered surfing on the North Shore! Blessed to have known so many and surfed such good uncrowded waves. 1969 December was the biggest I ever saw it!!! That was the historic massive surf that I was out there all day when it got so big we lost our beach house to the waves and it was crazy!!! Great memories!! My Dad who taught me to surf, grew up surfing on the old redwood boards wit no skeg and they tow turned!!! That was mostly Waikiki and othet spots, before anyone tried to surf the country!! My grand father was an engineer and he designed the road on windward Oahu fom.like kaneohe to the country. It wad s gravel road or path in the old days and people walked or road horse and buggies out there way back. The north shore was pretty much empty and no one surfing it and hardly any people out there. Amazing thinking of the ancient Hawaiians watching Pipeline whennit got big and perfect. There must have been in total awe of it seeing it tubing and spitting so close to shore!! Hawaii is so isolated and so special . No ka oi DL
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Hopupu!!
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I think I saw this on a winter Sunday, circa 1974. There were only 4 TV channels then, and I guess they had an empty slot,when no sports were on...
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Con esas tablas mas pesadas era dificil
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Mind you these guys participated in 20 mile paddleboard events,so they were superbly conditioned athletes.
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That’s when boards were made of wood…and men of Steel! Surfers Ruled!…
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Very very cool! Thank you for this bit of surfing history made by men with giant (and no doubt) balls of steel !
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KNOLLS FITNESS REGIME WAS THE CATALINA TO LONG BEACH PADDLE,26 MILES OF PUMPING YOUR BOARD.
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Toward the beginning the empty left peeling look like Hawaii 5 0 opening
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The real surfers!
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Super mushy, low energy waves, with like 10 second period. Looks like global warming has been good for pipe.
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HOLY CRAP, it takes a next level human being to surf huge Pipe, but to do it on a 12' single fin, even to just make it out the back is almost unimaginable... Unreal man, these guys were real men, men's men...
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All white boys no Hawaiins haha
We own you 😂
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Job would ride that on a blow up swan . 😂 The old pic of the bull standing in front of pipe. They should do one of Jamie ,standing there with the Swan haha new generation.
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This is actually Blue Surf-Ari by Milton Blair with this photography by BUD BROWNE the original surf film maker who stated it all. Bruce Brown no relation actually asked Bud for permission to make Endless Summer because Bud was so respected. Bud told Bruce to go for it. At the time Blue Surf-ari didn’t gain the popularity of endless summer but it stands out for its awesome sound track.
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Hodads take gas.
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How good is the commentary
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ballsOsteel
Frage auf YouTube stellen Fragen und Antworten stammen aus den YouTube-Kommentaren zu diesem Video.
Melanthius-r6s
1986 i was 14 and had the time of my life at pipeline i was impressed